Sustainability Propels Success at Claverach Farm

The new “slow foods” movement within the United States has a fine success story in rural Eureka. The brainchild of Eureka resident Sam Hilmer, Claverach Farm began operations in 1997.

Hilmer attended schools and Chaminade High School, then earned an anthropology degree from Webster University. “When Sam graduated from college, he told us he wanted to be a farmer. We about died,” said his mother, Jean Hilmer. But his mom needn’t have worried. Apparently Hilmer had thought the idea through, and the farm has been a big success in the St. Louis organic gardening and slow foods movement.

Hilmer grew up around farming, living on the property his great-grandfather, Joseph Boland, had settled in 1903. The name for the farm means “clover acre,” which Hilmer’s ancestor called his former home in Clayton. It’s also appropriate because clover is used widely on the farm to enrich the soil and attract bees for pollination.

Hilmer’s grandfather, also named Joe Boland, was a St. Peters farmer, and the future organic gardening enthusiast spent his summers working and learning about how to care for plants and animals. “I learned a lot working with him, and he was certainly a mentor,” Hilmer said.

Another mentor has been Paul Krautmann from Bellew’s Creek Farm in Cedar Hill, MO. When Hilmer visited Krautmann’s farm he met Joanna Duley, an employee at the farm, and she is now Hilmer’s business partner. Along with Hilmer, Duley has a passion for food. She has a varied background in the restaurant business. With her art background, she brings an artistic vision to the venture.   

The couple live in a 100-year-old cabin on the property, and they're building an apartment in the big cedar barn. Demonstrating their commitment to sustainability and harmony with nature, the main building in the business, the 100-year-old barn, was renovated and expanded using cedar trees that were felled on the property.

Over the last eight years, Hilmer and Duley have expanded the business. There are now 15 acres in cultivation. Five greenhouses help to extend the growing season for their customers.

The vineyard is growing with more production each year. Hilmer studied winemaking at the University of California, and also studied with winemakers in Australia.

At the farm, they produce a Norton Rose and a Missouri Norton Wine. “It’s hard to keep up with demand,” Hilmer said. “I’m pretty picky about which wine gets bottled with the Claverach name on it.” 

Claverach Farm has restaurant customers all over St. Louis, and they deliver the produce to them on regular routes. They also are regular vendors at the from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Wednesdays.

The farm crew hosted Slow Food St. Louis' “Feast in the Field” on June 26. The adult-only dinner was a vegetarian-centered one, although it was not meatless. More than a dozen chefs worked to use produce that is on the farm to make dinner for guests. The chefs included Adam Altnether (Taste by Niche), Christy Augustin (Le Cordon Bleu-St. Peters), Chris Bolyard (Sidney Street Cafe), Steve Caravelli (Araka), Anthony Devoti (Five), Jim Fiala (The Crossing), Chuck Friedhoff (Persimmon Woods), Tim Grandinetti (Overlook Farm), Carl McConnell (Stone Cottage), Cary McDowell (Winslow's Home), Nick Miller (Harvest), Clara Moore (Local Harvest Cafe), John Perkins (Entre Underground), Vito Racanelli (The Mad Tomato, Onesto), Jamey Tochtrop (Stellina Pasta Cafe) and Rob Uyemura (Yia Yia's). 

For more information about Claverach Farm, visit its website.